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Thread: Capturing iPad luminance in printing process

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Philadelphia,PA
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    Capturing iPad luminance in printing process

    I have a feeling this has already been discussed but I'll ask anyway...
    When painting in ArtRage on iPad, with that backlighting, whatever you paint has this obvious vibrancy. I just experimented with printing a painting on special fine art canvas inkjet paper but as expected the print is duller minus that backlit glow. Has anyone found a way to capture that iPad brilliance on paper? I was thinking that maybe I have to paint with more contrast and with brighter colors than what I'm actually seeing in my reference but that seems like a headache. Thoughts?
    thanks
    Robert

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Auckland, NZ
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    You could try editing it in a photo editor to increase the brightness and contrast before printing? This way you can paint as normal, and produce a tweaked version later.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    3,816
    The right paper is usually where you start, in my opinion.

    I struggle to get that clean print colour that matches the screen. I usually print on Epson Archival Matte, which gives an exact (beautiful) match, but I would love to find a quality art paper that gives the same results. Archival Matte is not the 'artist quality' I want.

    Next, I bought an heavy Epson Art paper, and it made the prints dull and not nearly so crisp, so back to the drawing board! Moab did the same, and it's not cheap. They all swear their paper will deliver, but it's not true.

    If there's anyone out there who can recommend a good paper that gives brilliant results, please......

  4. #4
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    Oct 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by copespeak View Post
    The right paper is usually where you start, in my opinion.

    I struggle to get that clean print colour that matches the screen. I usually print on Epson Archival Matte, which gives an exact (beautiful) match, but I would love to find a quality art paper that gives the same results. Archival Matte is not the 'artist quality' I want.

    Next, I bought an heavy Epson Art paper, and it made the prints dull and not nearly so crisp, so back to the drawing board! Moab did the same, and it's not cheap. They all swear their paper will deliver, but it's not true.

    If there's anyone out there who can recommend a good paper that gives brilliant results, please......
    Thanks for the replies. Why isn't the Archival Matte paper "artist quality"? The canvas paper I bought says I'll need to spray it with a particular fixative to be truly archival but truthfully I don't know if I'll buy this paper again. I mean, I'm not really gonna fool anybody that its a real painting. I might as well just print on a good paper. I'll try this Epson Archival Matte paper.
    I'll also try the tweaking in Photoshop before I print. Thanks for that tip too.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    I sell prints unframed at an Artist Market, and the Archival Matte is not the heavy watercolour style paper I would like to present my work on. It is reasonably solid and has a brightening surface on it, and I wonder how 'archival ' that is.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
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    Lynda.com author, Digital Tutors instructor
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    If you are printing directly from the iPad trying to match your screen to the print you may be out of luck.

    If you really want to get the best you can. Then there are two ways to go about this.

    The truly optimal way is to transfer your file to a MAC or PC with the appropriate photo editing software like Photoshop where you will utilize a printer profile and paper profile. Because every paper (especially canvas or metallics) has visual characteristics that vary from paper to paper and every printer brand and model also has particular printing characteristics. And these two have to be matched. Your monitor has to be calibrated for the room lighting your computer is in to get the best possible match for things like color balance and contrast, etc... Only then can you use Photoshop to view, compare and adjust an image to match your original. It's called soft proofing.

    The other way is to do what HannaRage says and adjust your file with some editing program (Photoshop on the iPad might work) and print a test strip. Adjust, and print another, and another, until you get close enough. It is hard to do - especially with canvas.

    I just printed a 9 piece series on canvas and because my printer only goes to 13x19 I had to send them out to a specialist (Nash Editions in California). Even with all of my knowledge and background in printing and their super extensive knowledge and experience, it was a bear to get right . And I say that with a wink, because matte canvas will never match what you get on the screen, you have to understand the compromise. But, you can, with work, get a really good dynamic range with matte canvas. Remember also that canvas has a texture that reflects light such that depending on how it is lit will reduce the depth of your blacks.

    I have heard of sprays that can not only UV protect your work but also deepen your blacks.

    I hope this helps explain a bit more about printing for anyone wanting to get the best they can out of their works.

    ArtRage4.5.9 MACPRO (El Capitan), Wacom Cintiq 13HD, iPad3, Note 4, Wacom Intous & Nomad Brush Compose.
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